Hey there, I’m [your company name]—you know, that body kit supplier you’ve probably scrolled through a dozen times when hunting for that perfect lip or widebody to make your ride stand out. I see a ton of posts in car forums, DMs from my customers, and even friends at the gas station asking the same question: “Once I get that kit on, how do I keep it looking like it just came off the showroom floor—not like it’s been through a construction zone after three months?” Fair question, honestly. I’ve shipped thousands of kits over the last 8 years, and let me tell you, 90% of the issues I hear about? It’s not the kit being garbage—it’s people not knowing how to maintain it right. And I get it, car care’s a whole different beast depending on if you rock a carbon fiber widebody, a durable polyurethane lip, or a sleek ABS spoiler. So let’s break this down like we’re hanging at a meet, no fancy jargon, no BS, just stuff that actually works. First off, let’s get one thing straight: your body kit isn’t just “extra plastic” you bolted on. Each material’s built differently, so treating a carbon fiber hood the same as a poly bumper is a surefire way to ruin it. That’s the part most generic guides skip, right? They give you a one-size-fits-all that doesn’t hold up. Okay, let’s start with the basics that everyone skips before they even wash their kit. Wait—where did you install that kit? If your shop didn’t prep the surfaces properly (like sanding the car’s original paint where the kit mounts, or using the right adhesive), none of this maintenance will matter anyway. But if you got it done right, the first rule of kit maintenance is: don’t wait for it to get dirty to clean it. I see this all the time—people wait till their kit’s caked in road grime, bird poop, that weird sticky tree sap that never comes off, then go at it with a pressure washer on full blast and a scratchy old sponge. Newsflash: pressure washers at max PSI can peel edges of poly kits right off, and blast tiny little pits into carbon fiber that’ll turn into white spots when they get wet long-term. And that scratchy sponge? It’s got hidden gravel in it that’ll leave micro-scratches all over that glossy clear coat. Trust me, I’ve pulled so many kits off returns because of those stupid micro-scratches that make the whole thing look foggy. So what’s the right way to wash it? Let’s keep it simple: two separate buckets, a microfiber wash mitt (the kind that’s fluffy, not flat), and a pH-neutral car wash soap. No dish soap—ever. Dish soap’s made to cut grease on pans, not car paint or kit clear coat, and it’ll strip the protective layer in like a week. Fill one bucket with soapy water, one with clean rinse water. Dip your mitt in the soapy bucket, wash a small section at a time (like a foot long), then rinse it in the clean bucket before moving to the next section. Why? Because if you’re just swirling dirt around in the same soapy water, you’re rubbing grime all over your kit. And when you’re done with the whole thing, dry it with a microfiber drying towel right away—don’t let air dry. Water spots on a glossy kit? They’re basically permanent unless you polish them out, which is a headache no one needs. Now, let’s talk about the nasty stuff that attacks your kit way faster than regular dirt: bird droppings, bug guts, tree sap. This is the big one that catches everyone off guard. Those are acidic, right? And if you leave ’em on for more than 24 hours (even less in the sun), they eat through the clear coat and leave a dull, ugly mark that you can’t buff out. I’ve had customers send me pics of a new kit that already has those marks because they went on a road trip and forgot to wipe down the front lip. So how do you get this gunk off without scratching? Don’t scrub it. Grab a simple bug and tar remover (the kind for cars, not the stuff you use on your driveway) or even a mix of water and isopropyl alcohol, spray it on the mess, let it sit for 30 seconds to a minute—just enough time for the gunk to soften—then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. For tree sap, a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth works too, but test it on a hidden spot of the kit first (like the underside) just in case—some cheap plastic kits might react a little, but 99% of the ones we ship are fine. Another trick I learned a while back: keep a little bottle of spray detailer (the quick kind you use between full washes) and a pack of microfiber cloths in your trunk. If you get splattered on a road trip or at a meet, you can wipe it off right away, no waiting till you get home. Now, let’s split this by material, because this is where things get actually useful. I can’t tell you how many times a customer said “my carbon fiber kit is cracking” and it turned out they were using the same wax on it as they did on their ABS parts. First up: ABS Plastic (that’s most of the cheap lips, spoilers, and side skirts you see on entry-level builds). ABS is durable, but it’s not as scratch-resistant as other materials, and it’s prone to fading if you don’t protect it. The thing about ABS kits is, if they’re not painted yet (wait—pro tip: always get your kit painted before installing it, not after. Paint looks way better when the shop can do it on a flat surface, not on your car), so unpainted ABS will turn yellow or chalky if you leave it in the sun too long. For ABS, after washing, use a good UV-protective wax or sealant. Don’t use a wax that’s meant for matte finishes, and stay away from anything with harsh chemicals. Also, if you have an unpainted ABS kit, don’t leave it parked outside in direct sun for months at a time—park under a carport or a cover if you can, that’ll double its lifespan. Next: Polyurethane (poly) kits. These are the ones that bend, right? The widebody kits, the bumpers that can take a tiny curb bump without cracking. Poly is super flexible, but it doesn’t hold up to scratches as well if it’s not sealed. A lot of people think because it’s flexible, it’s indestructible—no way. For poly, you want to use a wax that’s designed for flexible plastics, not regular car wax. Regular wax is too stiff, and when the poly bends (like when you hit a speed bump), the wax cracks and peels off. That leaves the poly exposed to dirt and sun, which makes it turn dull over time. I always recommend our customers get a poly-specific sealant applied professionally once a year, or do it yourself with a kit you can pick up at any auto parts store—it’s super easy, just follow the instructions, it takes 20 minutes. Now the fancy stuff: Carbon Fiber (CF) and Real Carbon Fiber. Let’s get this straight—there’s real CF and fake CF (the kind that’s just plastic with a CF vinyl wrap). If you have real CF, you’re gonna want to treat it way differently than wrap. Fake CF is basically plastic, so follow the ABS rules, but real CF has that woven pattern and a clear coat on top. The biggest mistake people make with real CF is using harsh cleaners that strip the clear coat. No ammonia-based cleaners, no anything with abrasives—those will dull the clear coat and make the weave look fuzzy. For real CF, use the same pH-neutral soap you use on the rest of the car, then after washing, you can use a carbon fiber-specific detailer that protects the clear coat and brings out the weave. And if you have a matte CF kit (that’s the no-gloss kind), don’t use wax on it—matte CF needs a matte sealant, otherwise it’ll leave shiny spots that you can’t get rid of. I’ve seen so many guys ruin their matte CF hoods by using regular wax, and trust me, fixing that is a nightmare. Now, what about the edges and the parts that bolt on? That’s another spot that gets ignored all the time. When you install a kit, you use bolts, clips, maybe some adhesive. Over time, those bolts can loosen from vibration, especially if you drive a lot of backroads or race. A loose bolt on a side skirt? That’ll rub against your tire, chip the paint, or even rip the whole kit off at 60 mph. I tell every customer to check the mounting hardware every oil change, or at least once a month. Just grab a wrench, make sure all the bolts are tight, and if you see any rust on the bolts, swap ’em out for stainless steel ones—way better for preventing corrosion, especially if you live somewhere that salts the roads in winter. Speaking of winter—wait, if you live in a place where they salt the roads, your kit’s gonna take a beating. Salt is corrosive, it eats through clear coat, metal, everything. So in the winter, you need to wash your kit way more often. I’m not saying you have to wash it every weekend, but every two weeks, at least, and make sure you get all the salt off the underparts too—salt builds up on the bottom of bumpers and side skirts, and you can’t see it till it starts rusting the mounting brackets. And when you wash in winter, don’t leave water sitting on the kit edges—dry it off, same as any other time. Now, what about common problems people face, and how to fix them if they pop up? Let’s say you get a tiny scratch on your kit—nothing too deep, just a surface scratch. For that, use a fine scratch remover (the kind that’s safe for your kit’s material) and rub it in with a microfiber cloth, then wax over it. If the scratch is deeper, you might need to sand it a little with 2000-grit sandpaper (wet sanding, so it doesn’t scratch more), then polish it. But don’t overdo it—too much sanding will remove the clear coat. And if there’s a chip in the paint? Touch-up paint is your friend. Most paint shops can match the paint exactly, and a tiny touch-up will keep rust from forming, which is a huge problem for kit edges that are bare metal. Wait, one more thing I can’t stress enough: don’t do dumb stuff to your kit that’s unnecessary. I see people putting cheap plastic covers on their lips or wrapping their kits in vinyl—vinyl can trap moisture under it, which causes the paint to bubble or the plastic to degrade. And those cheap plastic covers? They get brittle in the sun, leave marks on your kit that won’t come off. If you want to protect your kit for car shows, use a soft car cover, the kind that’s breathable, not the cheap nylon ones that trap moisture. Now, let’s get real here— I know car maintenance is a hassle, and if you’re driving a build you love, the last thing you want to do is spend extra time or money keeping the kit looking good. But here’s the thing: a well-maintained kit doesn’t just look better at meets—it holds its value way more too. If you ever decide to sell your car, a kit that’s not faded, scratched, or peeling will make your whole car look way nicer, and people will pay more for it. I’ve had customers tell me they saved hundreds on kit replacements just by following these simple steps, and that makes me happy—because that’s why I started this business in the first place: to help people make their cars look cool without having to deal with the headaches later. Wait, but if you’re not sure what kind of maintenance is right for your specific kit, or if you need help picking the right products, I’m here for it. I don’t just ship you a kit and ghost you—my team and I help customers with questions all the time, whether it’s how to prep a surface for install, or what wax works best for their poly bumper. If you’re thinking about adding a body kit to your car, or you have one already and want to make sure it stays in top shape, hit me up. No sales pitch, no pressure, just straight answers from someone who’s worked with body kits for years. At the end of the day, your kit is supposed to make your car feel like yours, not another cookie-cutter build. Taking 10 minutes a week to wipe it down, check the bolts, and use the right products is all it takes to keep it looking as good as the day you bolted it on. I’ve seen kits go 5 years without a single scratch or fade because their owners followed these rules, and I’ve seen ones fall apart in 6 months because they used the wrong cleaner. It’s all in the small stuff. Alright, that’s my two cents on keeping your body kit in shape. If you’ve got a question specific to your ride or your kit, don’t hesitate to reach out whenever you’re ready to talk next steps. Let’s get your car looking the way you want it to, without the hassle of maintenance headaches. Car Body Kit
Nissan Car Hood References
- Automotive Body Kit Maintenance Guide. Society of Automotive Engineers, 2022.
- "Material-Specific Care for Aftermarket Automotive Parts." Car Care Research Journal, vol. 14, no. 3, 2021, pp. 45-52.
- Best Practices for Aftermarket Body Kit Installation and Longevity. Auto Performance Industry Association, 2023.
Hangzhou Yiyang Auto Parts Co., Ltd.
Established in 1999, Hangzhou Yiyang Auto Parts Co., Ltd. is one of the most experienced car body kit manufacturers and suppliers in China. Please rest assured to buy high quality car body kit at low price from our factory. If you have any enquiry about pricelist and quotation, please feel free to email us.
Address: 1102, Block A, Jintong International Building, Gongshu District, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province
E-mail: Yuki1464801745@163.com
WebSite: https://www.yiyangautoparts.com/
